low cost simple John Linsley Hood 1969 class A amp kit build

A simple build of one of the basic JLH 1969 Class A kits into a dumpster dived old amp chassis.

JLH 1969 found object chassis

Used a 120W SMPS after reading in the DIYaudio forums lots of people getting positive results combining this older “classic” DIY design with modern quality switched mode power supplies.

I decided to build this to dabble further with Class A amplifiers after being quite impressed with a very well made DIY S.E.T. Class A valve amp I got to loan. One of the few gear changes my wife has made unsolicited positive comments about the sound.

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PVC bass reflex port extenders.

The current 139 litre volume of the cabinets I’m planning need a two 100mm diameter 24 cm bass reflex ports to tune to my proposed frequency of 33Hz.. Any of the bass reflex tube products cost quite a few bucks to send over to Australia unfortunately. Thanks to the useful suggestions of Stereo.net.au forum members, I got the idea of making my own from PVC water piping, using a heat gun to form the flares. But I’m not so handy with being able to fashion them presentably well, so I went with a combined approach of using some less expensive fixed lenth 200mm long ports (the same kind from Altronics I’ve already used), with some 90mm PVC piping to make short extensions with flaring on the end.

Lucky I still had the offcuts from the ones I had shortened for the Econowave speakers so I could use that to check the dimensions were OK:


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a new waveguide to try: 18Sound XT1464

There aren’t many constant directivity waveguides for 1.4″ compression drivers, but one I had not been aware of until Paul Spencer and SvenR on SNA forums brought it to my attention was the 18sound Xt1464.

After reading up on it I found it online for sale (inc shipping) not too expensive at www.thomann.de. It did take ages to show up though, with very detailed notifications of the first and last 2 days of shipping, and nothing for the 3 weeks inbetween.

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revisiting the DSE A2667 tweak with better measurements

I just revisited my tweaks to the DSE A2667 speaker (an OK quality cheap speaker commonly available second hand in Australia for about $20). This is because I had the loan of a WooferTester 3 unit from Col, so I could measure the drivers properly, and also had been given an extra pair to experiment with (thanks Gavin!).

TLDR summaryI made one additional adjustment to the crossover that made the response even flatter, by adding a 4.4uF capacitor to the LF portion to make it a 2nd order filter, while inverting the polarity of the tweeter.. but at the cost of an increase in measured distortion at about 3.5khz.
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HF144 with FaitalPro LTH142 and Pyle PH916 – outdoors directivity measurements

OK, we know that simple on axis, straight into the speaker frequency measurements aren’t the whole story – getting a range of measurements at different angles gives a better idea for speakers getting general use, not the whole glued to the magic sweetspot that a lot of hifi has.

So it was time to do some directivity measurements. I don’t have the a licensed copy of ARTA so I can’t do the heatmaps ala Gainphile’s site – but at least Room EQ Wizard is a nice free package that makes it fairly easy to overlay lots of frequency response graphs in different colours.
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trying Pyle PH916 constant directivity waveguide: first impressions

I wanted to try some different waveguide options besides the FaitalPro LTH142 before I start making enclosures – and noticed the Pyle PH916 was a quite decent looking, inexpensive, candidate – but very little information about people using it at all on the web, unlike lots of other waveguides. But it is sold as a constant directivity waveguide, and in fact the waveguide I use in my Econowave speakers is a smaller model from Pyle so I gave it a try.
Pyle and FaitalPro waveguides side by side
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